Arts & Entertainment
Amuse Bouche: Remembering Joel Robuchon
Published
6 years agoon
Posted By
Outlaw PartnersBy Scott Mechura
EBS Food Columnist
I had every intention of following my last column about saffron with a brief history of another of the world’s most sought-after spices, but that will have to wait. I felt that we needed to acknowledge the life and career of the man who was awarded the title of “chef of the century” by Gault Millau in 1989.
I was recently having a conversation with my brother about how we are entering an era of losing many of our most respected and treasured musical icons—a few have already left us. We are also bidding adieu to some of the world’s greatest chefs.
We lost Paul Bocuse this spring, and on Aug. 6 the world lost chef Joel Robuchon, who died of pancreatic cancer in Geneva, Switzerland at the age of 73.
Chef Robuchon was an interesting contradiction. He was not so much an innovator but a keeper of tradition, while simultaneously turning it upside down. He was an early proponent of nouvelle cuisine, which, in the simplest terms, meant adding supporting ingredients, and showcasing the protein and finer ingredients on the plate, rather than cloaking them with a heavy sauce. It also meant accenting dishes with beautiful, edible garnishes—cutting edge in the late 1970s. Yet Robuchon was steadfast in his belief that a dish should almost never have more than three to four ingredients to allow every component to shine.
Simple mashed potatoes—his signature dish—is a perfect example. Considered the best chef of the century and he was known for his mashed potatoes. That should tell you how delicious they must have been.
If you’ve ever read his recipe, you see its emphasis on attention to detail and respect for the process. You boil potatoes, you mash them with butter, salt and milk, right? Not to him.
You don’t only boil potatoes; it’s a specific type of potato from France, called Ratte, and you boil them with the skin on and peel them by hand while still piping hot—a job left to young apprentices looking to earn their chef coat—and put them through a ricer to avoid even the smallest of lumps.
Then there is a specific order of adding the cold butter, the hot milk, and stirring vigorously for up to five minutes. And still, I have left some steps out.
This provides a glimpse into the detail and perfectionism that defined everything he did.
Robuchon received too many awards to list here, but a couple stand out above all others. Aside from being named chef of the century, he earned the most Michelin stars of any chef in history—an astonishing 31 throughout his portfolio of restaurants.
And then, Robuchon did something unexpected. Fearing for his own health after seeing a number of fellow chefs die from what he perceived as industry-related stress, he retired. At 50 years old, he hung up his apron, turned off the stoves, and walked away.
But that didn’t last long—he soon returned and built a global empire that would span three continents.
I have his cookbook, “L’ atelier of Joel Robuchon,” which I have referenced many times in my career. But now, I will hold on to it as if it were a painting by Picasso.
Scott Mechura has spent a life in the hospitality industry. He is a former certified beer judge and currently the Executive Chef at Buck’s T-4 Lodge in Big Sky.
The Outlaw Partners is a creative marketing, media and events company based in Big Sky, Montana.
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My Barking Dog is a nightmare comedy
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My Barking Dog is a nightmare comedy that tells the story of Toby and Melinda, two lonely people whose lives are forever changed the night they encounter a starving coyote at their apartment building. Over time they grow to expect him, leaving ritual offerings to entice the coyote every night. Toby and Melinda forge a connection over this visitor and share curiosity and concern about his presence in the city. The coyote expands their world–until, one night, their world is shattered. Their lives are pushed suddenly into uncharted territory, sending them on a surreal odyssey that changes their city–and the world–forever.
Directed by LX Miller. Starring Max Schneider and Denise Hergett
Verge Theater is continuing their mission to provide accessible theater to our community. Tickets for My Barking Dog are Pay What You Wish with a suggested price of $35. Audience members are offered the opportunity to select the price point that is comfortable for them when purchasing tickets.
My Barking Dog runs March 15-17, 22-24, 28-30
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Suitable for ages 16 . No animals are harmed in the staging of this production.
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Area parents are encouraged to bring their young children to Symphony Storytime with a Bassoon which will be presented at the Bozeman Public Library’s Community Room during
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Area parents are encouraged to bring their young children to Symphony Storytime with a Bassoon which will be presented at the Bozeman Public Library’s Community Room during their regular Toddler and Preschool Storytime on Wednesday, March 20, at 10:15 a.m. The free program, presented by the Bozeman Symphony is especially for children ages 3 to 5. Children will be able to listen to Montana Shakespeare in the Parks actor Emma Rather, who will be joined by Bozeman Symphony Bassoonist Sam Macken. The goal of the program is to encourage a love of music, literacy, and discovery. Additional programs are scheduled at the Library on April 10 and June 12. For more information, visit www.bozemansymphony.org or call 406-585-9774.
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