By Rachel Hergett EBS COLUMNIST
“We live in an expanding universe,” I read on a printed slip of paper, slightly yellowed by the sun and time, under the clear bar countertop of the Wrap Shack in Big Sky’s Westfork Meadows. “All of it is trying to get away from Chuck Norris.”
I may well have been someone’s eye-roll worthy dad in a past life, because my inner cheeseball loves jokes that make most of my friends groan and send me the facepalm emoji in reply—well, except for my former KGLT radio Magic Monday Show co-host, DJ Missy O’Malley. When it comes to cheesy jokes, we do not diss-a-Brie.
I text Missy later and ask her favorite Chuck Norris joke. The only one that comes to mind continues to assert Chuck Norris’ dominance over all things, to the point that when the man jumps into a pool, she texts, “he doesn’t get wet, the water gets Chuck Norrised.”
Thinking of Missy and the joy she finds sharing her love of snowboarding in these mountains makes me grateful to the small dining area at the front of the Wrap Shack, its nostalgic beach shack vibes uniting surf and mountain culture and, in this moment, Missy and I through our shared dad humor.
Maybe I was feeling sentimental, because when it came time to order I very much stuck to what felt classic. Seems I very much had a Mission-style burrito on the brain and stayed true to the vision. Mission burritos, originating in the San Francisco neighborhood of the same name, are the style that Chipotle founder Steve Ellis brought back home to Colorado and then to the world. They are the giant handheld burritos with rice and beans, and proteins and other ingredients common in Mexican-based cuisine in the United States, all wrapped up snug in massive flour tortillas.
I might have also been led in that direction by the fast casual restaurant itself. As I approached on a Wednesday afternoon in May’s shoulder season, I took note—and a photo—of the front window decal featuring Wrap Shack’s burrito monkey, which states with emphasis that the wraps inside are “Fast, Fresh & FAT: That’s How We Roll,” an idea echoed with the website URL werollemfat.com. The size is very much a part of what makes a Mission burrito a Mission burrito.
So let’s say—with pun fully intended and a groan if you must—that I was on a mission. I ordered a burrito, or a “wrap,” in the self-explanatory “big” size, choosing grilled chicken and steak as double proteins over cilantro lime rice and pinto beans and topping it with a variety of veggies, Shack salsa and Mexi ranch. I’m told the latter is essentially ranch dressing with taco spices like cumin and peppers as owner Alison Adams expertly guides me through the salsa and sauce options to avoid my weird bell pepper allergy.
“Chuck Norris spices up his steaks with pepper spray,” I read. The Wrap Shack, thankfully, does not.
Of the protein options I sampled on this visit, the grilled steak was the most flavorful and tender, with just enough pepper and smoky char. I also appreciated the mushrooms as a vegetarian option. They added a nice rich flavor and chew to the mix, though they seemed to be baby bellas. Same mushroom species, but the older, larger version we call portobellos could up both the flavor and texture factor.
I ordered the mushrooms in a bowl that was essentially a Mission burrito sans tortilla—only choosing a different style of bean, a hotter salsa and the creamy chipotle sauce.
Though maintaining the ingredients for pre-conceived wrap styles that have made Wrap Shack a Big Sky favorite since 2004, the menu is now entirely a build-your-own model. But is there a secret handshake that allows access to those old creations?
I’m sad to say I don’t remember them.
Like a Chuck Norris joke, a standard Mission burrito now feels dependable. Yes, sometimes that’s exactly what we need and damn if I didn’t wolf that thing down. But it may also be true that I was too set in my ways. My order was what ended up feeling dependable. And Wrap Shack still has a few surprises.
Now, I’m brainstorming possibilities. What could I make with barbecue and hot wing sauce as options? Do salad dressings like Caesar, blue cheese and Italian mix well with the various salsas? Certain ingredients like the guacamole and fajita vegetables do come with an additional charge, and that can add up. But if you stick to the basics, a big wrap or bowl with a drink, chips and a side of salsa or queso lands at $15—or $16 for steak—which seems reasonable these days, especially because I got two meals out of that burrito.
As the summer season approaches, Wrap Shack’s hours are expanding, so you’ll have more time to get your fill of Chuck Norris and stretch your creative wrap-, bowl- and salad-building muscles. Find the latest hours on the website, or follow Wrap Shack on Instagram or Facebook for updates.
To wrap up, I’ll leave you with one more joke that reminds me of a key factor I didn’t otherwise mention: Wrap Shack has frosty drinks! Frozen margaritas and a rotating flavor of slush speak of a sunny beachside, even amid the thaw-freeze cycle of mud season. Just beware of slush-induced brain freeze. You are no Chuck Norris.
“Chuck Norris does not get frostbite. Chuck Norris bites frost.” Groan.
Rachel Hergett is a foodie and cook from Montana. She is arts editor emeritus at the Bozeman Daily Chronicle and has written for publications such as Food Network Magazine and Montana Quarterly. Rachel is also the host of the Magic Monday Show on KGLT-FM and teaches at Montana State University.
