By Scott Mechura EBS FOOD COLUMNIST
Do you want to be Myspace or Facebook?
We see it all the time. Pioneers who pave the way,
revolutionize the way we live, or acquire something only to fade away as
successors duplicate their vision with better product, better methods or less
expensive cost of production.
There is one in particular that I thought would always stand
resilient, at least in the foreseeable future. But even they haven’t withstood
the inevitability of the commerce tsunami that is the likes of Amazon and
Alibaba.
As I write this, Dean & DeLuca, the Manhattan-based specialty
foods store, is “86-ing” many of their stores, and those remaining are probably
not far behind according to reports from landlords and vendors being stiffed on
rent and payments.
Currently, Dean & DeLuca is down to a mere six stores in
the U.S. from its peak of 40 as recently as 2014 when it was purchased by PACE
Development, a Thai real estate and gourmet retail company.
Opening in 1977 in SoHo, or, south of Houston Street in
Manhattan, Giorgio DeLuca and Joel Dean introduced those first culinarily
curious New Yorkers, who we now colloquially refer to as “foodies,” to items
such as caviar, truffle oil, artisan olives and cheeses, Asian fruits and
tapenades. All of which are not only now commonplace in pantries across
America, but some of which are even considered blasé by some. And all thanks to
the culinary vision of Dean and DeLuca.
There were predecessors, as well as competitors, such as San
Francisco-based Williams Sonoma, founded in 1956. Though they have equally
enticing wares, their main focus has always been kitchenware and home
furnishings.
This is exactly the type of business that should continue to
be patronized, despite Amazon or Alibaba telling us otherwise.
I’ve visited stores like this all
over the country. From the immense Eataly in the heart of Manhattan, to a store
I don’t even know the name of in Rutherford, California, a few blocks off the
well-traveled tourist corridor that is Highway 29. Housed in a
turn-of-the-last-century laundry, the woman who owns it can’t even complete a
transaction or tell you about any of her vast array of olive oils, unless her
English-speaking granddaughter is there, despite her always maintaining her
post behind the cash register. Yes, an actual cash register.
I can’t think of a more interesting type of store than what
I just described. But today, Dean & Deluca is suffering from both exterior
and interior challenges. Amazon has taken a fairly large bite out of the
specialty foods market. Though some of us enjoy the experience of a physical store,
where we can see, touch and taste in person, many younger consumers don’t want
that interaction.
In addition, many larger grocery stores that do have the
chops to withstand market challenges have added sections or aisles that now
sell many of those once sought-after items—items Dean & Deluca first
introduced and later popularized.
The two locations that they were most proud of were in St.
Helena, California, and New York City. I have had the pleasure of visiting
both—and the California location definitely more than once.
For me, as a chef, I enjoy stores like this because it
allows me to experience the products in person, rather than reading a review
from someone whom I’ve never met trying to tell me why they liked or disliked
something.
But those days are fading fast.
Scott Mechura has
spent a life in the hospitality industry. He is a former certified beer judge
and currently the Executive Chef at Buck’s T-4 Lodge in Big Sky.