By Rachel Hergett EBS COLUMNIST
I’ve spent some time contemplating waypoints recently, and recently visited the local gathering space that uses the concept as a name.
Humans naturally use waypoints for navigation, places that mark our journeys through this life. My mind turns to the Oregon Trail computer game, where players are settlers crossing the continental United States to seek new homes in the west. As a consequence of having the game on my elementary school computers, the landmarks on the route are drilled into my head. I know I’m well into the trek if I make it to Independence Rock, and that the journey is almost to an end once I hit the Dalles in Oregon.
The game, of course, is based in reality and the actual hardships faced by those making the long, arduous haul. And maybe that makes waypoints even more important. Imagine your wagon train spotting Chimney Rock in the distance, its spire a welcome sight that marks the path, or the “way.” You’re heading in the right direction.
The space that started as Lone Peak Cinema became the Independent in 2022, but was forced to rebrand last spring after a San Francisco venue also called the Independent claimed trademark protection over the name. “Waypoint” was chosen to reflect the idea that through all its varied uses, the space remains a gathering place for community, a stop on our journeys.
Following the ideals behind the name, The Waypoint has become a popular hang for locals. It’s a movie theater, sure. But it’s also a gathering space and community hall of sorts. And a bar. And a restaurant. The latter, of course, is of the most interest at the moment.
On a Sunday evening, the place was relatively quiet. One man sat in the back room, watching football (soccer) on a giant projection screen. One bartender busied themselves behind the sidewalk-facing bar, despite dreary weather that kept outside customers to a trickle. A new bartender in his second training shift was sunny and attentive, though maybe not yet the best authority to ask about menu suggestions.
A friend and I took a seat in the bar area, forgoing the quieter upstairs dining space to be a part of the action. I was slightly tempted to rush through the meal for the Sunday dinner and a movie special: a free movie ticket and drink from the concession stand with each entree from the restaurant. Instead, I went through my normal paces, ordering way too much food in an attempt to get a feel for the scope of the menu.
Like the space, the restaurant at The Waypoint has undergone a spate of changes in recent years. As of April, the kitchen is under the direction of chef Dustin Rixey, who was born and raised in New Mexico and found his way to Montana two years ago. Priorities had shifted amid a global pandemic, the former pro snowboarder told me over the phone. His son had graduated high school. Both wanted to start fresh in the mountains. Outside of the restaurant, Rixey is training his two Belgian Malinois—a breed of shepherd—to be sled dogs. You may find them bikejoring in the mountains.
The executive chef left the Strip House in Las Vegas to take a position at The Resort at Paws Up in northwestern Montana, eventually making his way to Big Sky Resort and, since May, The Waypoint.
When Rixey talks about training in French and Italian restaurants and cuisines, his menu draws inspiration from a range of global flavors. Beet hummus reminds me of the Mediterranean restaurant that once had a home upstairs. A delectable and perfectly rare charred bison strip is drizzled in Brazilian chimichurri, an herby sauce that adds just the right hit of acid to the meat.
Rixey’s Italian background does make a strong showing with the house-made cannoli, where mini malted milk balls are a welcome contrast to the smooth ricotta cream filling.
In the style of a French bistro, the new menu focuses on local ingredients with a range of dishes to satisfy a variety of palates. There are ancient grains and cauliflower steak, but also French fries and chicken wings. Rixey said the menu will change seasonally, as different ingredients become available locally. More fresh fish may be introduced.
While my initial impression was that the variety of options seemed directionless, maybe Rixey’s menu itself is a waypoint, directing us and guiding us forward along our chosen path. For a weary traveler, a waypoint can be an oasis, providing company and fuel to help us along the way. And that, The Waypoint certainly achieves.
Rachel Hergett is a foodie and cook from Montana. She is arts editor emeritus at the Bozeman Daily Chronicle and has written for publications such as Food Network Magazine and Montana Quarterly. Rachel is also the host of the Magic Monday Show on KGLT-FM and teaches at Montana State University.
