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Gear review: Black Diamond Focus climbing harness



By Pat Wolfe Contributor

Since getting the Black Diamond Focus (($79.95) this spring, I’ve spent many hours climbing and hanging in it. A versatile harness, it’s low profile enough for sport climbing, but comfortable and durable enough for long trad routes.

The small, auto-locking waist buckle doesn’t push into my belly and is easy to adjust. The leg loops are not adjustable, but a few inches of elastic keep them in place—something some of my women friends say is uncomfortably snug but has never bothered me.

The best thing about the Focus is that it has lot of room for gear. There are four gear loops on the sides, a full strength haul loop on the back for a tag line, plus another gear loop that spans across the back. The secondary tag loop is so thin that it can be hard to feel and pull gear off of, but it’s nice to have the extra space on longer routes for hanging lightweight extras like a raincoat.

This harness is perfect for climbing in Gallatin Canyon, Blodgett or other long free climbs, but less suited to big walls or ice.

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